Tucked away in a side road off Haverstock Hill, XO restaurant in Belsize Park is perhaps not the best location to be navigating to on a dark and rainy autumn night. However the venue itself is warm and inviting and a perfect sanctuary from the elements. Softly lit and with a homely, modern decor, XO attracts a quietly sophisticated and well heeled crowd. Coats and umbrellas were taken, seats acquired, then menu perusal began.

Offering a relatively small selection of modern pan-asian cuisine, we still felt quite spoilt for choice. Tuna and salmon sashimi were no-brainers for sushi aficionados such as ourselves, and, as requested, was the first starter to arrive. Immaculately presented on a bowl of ice, we were initially swayed by style over substance. Sadly the presentation ensured that the fish was chilled to the point where it numbed the tongue and all flavour was lost. Desirable perhaps for a cheap lager, but not necessarily for sashimi at just over a pound per slice.

The selection of dim sum however lifted spirits; beautiful morsels of sweet shrimp tempura, fluffy and morish; chilli salt squid perfectly cooked and served in a pot lined with what appeared to be authentic japanese newspaper; and a rich and satisfying foursome of duck and foie gras sio mai. This course was let down, however slightly, by the signature scallop XO dumplings, which were far too oily, cloying to the mouth and otherwise overpowering the flavour and texture of the scallop.

After such a rich and substantial set of starters, we powered on to the mains, which were markedly different; unbelieveably tender black cod with a sweet miso sauce seemed miles away from the other chosen main, a tough, dry and oversalted beef bulgogi. Both were complemented by succulent and refreshingly side of crisp bok choi and an unremarkable portion of egg fried rice.

Desserts then called out to us, and we braved a portion of banoffee pie (exceedingly rich, and a bit heavy handed on the cream) and also three scoops of cheesecake ice cream (served imaginatively, in three separate bowls). Both were a satisfying, if hefty end to a satisfyingly hefty meal.

XO is a charming restaurant with friendly and attentive service, with substantially rich food that is more hit than miss. Whilst its location and pricing may put off most regular diners, it’s a recommended venue for those in the area looking for a special meal.

XO Restaurant