Cicada, serving pan-asian cuisine in trendy Clerkenwell, London, could very easily get away with dishing up the eponymous insect in any number of ways; they are eaten throughout the world and are often considered to be a delicacy. Thankfully, for the squeamish, or simply unadventurous, there was nothing of the sort on our given menus. Rather, coolography assumes, Cicada is named so for its small, buzzing atmosphere, snugly nestled on St John’s street, just off Clerkenwell Road.

Entering the intimately lit restaurant we were seated in a pleasantly swift manner, amongst low-profile booth tables that ensured the room felt open and airy yet still afforded us with some privacy. The bustle of the clientele, even on a wednesday evening, was such that perhaps Cicada wouldn’t be on the top of our lists for a romantic dinner, but for a party of four was more than ideal.

The menu itself is very similar, almost an extension to, its sister restaurant XO in belsize park, offering rich, inventive takes on classic asian cuisine. Drinks were reasonably varied, and after a lengthy wait for an unavailable cocktail we were generously offered a replacement, gratis. Starters consisted of a faultless salt and chilli squid, and a bright assortment of vegetable tempura (with almost trowel-sized sweet potato portions). The sushi selection came with gloriously textured maki rolls, but unfortunately the accompanying sashimi slices of salmon, tuna, and yellowtail were quite unspectacular.

Mains were well received, in particular the surprisingly palatable combination of lychee and aubergine in a green curry, as was the deep fried whole seabass, which, despite its somewhat macabre presentation, was a joy to disassemble and eat. Generously proportioned, the mains and starters left barely a modicum of room for dessert. But, dedicated to the cause, as coolographers are, we stood firm and opted to both stay, and eat, the course.

The banoffee pie we found to be identical to that served at XO, and so it arrived inherent with all its virtues and faults, the fault in particular being that it is too much of a good thing! Possibly a harsh judgement but we felt that the richness of the dessert could be spread thinner so as to create a less overpowering mouthful. Wisely, we also opted for the iced berries with a warm white chocolate sauce, the tartness of which cut through the richness of the banoffee pie well. The contrast of temperatures meant that the dessert, on its own, was a pleasant choice, despite the more imaginative of us at the table likening the remaining berry compote and white chocolate sauce to certain bodily fluids…

Ever so slightly nudging into the pricey territory, Cicada nonetheless serves good food and manages successfully to straddle the fine line between the intimate and the lively. Add to this quick, knowledgable and unobtrusively friendly service in a great location, and you have a restaurant that is coolography approved™.

Cicada