coolography

jean-georges

Posted on: 20 July 2009

On a recent coolography expedition to New York, the sheer depth and breadth of culinary options left us daunted. Much like London, New York is a premier international destination with a wide multicultural heritage, and as a result, every taste, whim, and adventurous craving can be satisfied with ease. From the humblest street vendor to the most awarded establishment, we wanted to taste it all. With time unfortunately not on our side, we made it a point to sample the very best New York had to offer.

Looking no further than the Michelin guide, the revered culinary bible, we shortlisted the four New York restaurants blessed with 3 stars – the highest accolade possible. Though famed establishments such as Le Benardin, Per Se, and newcomer Masa all have their own merits, we could not ignore Jean-Georges – the eponymous flagship of celebrated chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. With 12 Michelin stars and countless other awards under his belt, it struck coolography that this man, with a near villainous name, knew a certain something about diabolically good food.

With no reservations, we made reservations, and prepared ourselves for a meal at one of the best restaurants in the world…

Making its home in the North side of Columbus Circle, and on the ground floor of Trump International Hotel and Tower, Jean-Georges makes no secret of its pedigree. Up a small flight of stairs, and past a simple gilded Jean Georges signature, we arrived at the restaurant entrance, opening up to expectant Maître d’s. We were shown swiftly to the dining room, and seated at, allegedly, Donald Trump’s favoured table. A sea of cream and white, the dining room’s airy, relaxed atmosphere was helped by high ceilings and a stunning view of the famous Columbus Circle landmark. The restaurant’s clientele seemed to be a mix of old and new money New Yorkers, and various groups celebrating special occasions.

Location, decor, and clientele aside, we were more interested in the food. We began with a trio of amuse-bouches: A herbal potato drink offered a refreshingly concentrated, if short-lived, shot of herby flavour. Nearby sat a small dose of home made buffalo mozarella, topped with a chunk of dehydrated pineapple – a strange, if pleasing combination of flavour and textures, but in essence a nod to the classic toothpicked cheese and pineapple canape. The final amuse-bouche placed a fritter of peekytoe crab, on a chinese five spice sauce and topped with a mango puree. An intriguing mix of crunchy and smooth textures balanced perfectly by the spicy and sweet accompaniments left us wanting more; amuse-bouches indeed…

Jean Georges offers a tasting menu which you can customise as you see fit, with a dazzling array of dishes to pick and choose, each of which adds a supplementary amount to the cost of the meal. As recommended by our helpful waiter, we were advised to pick downwards through the list, with each successive dish becoming heavier and richer. With no qualms there, we opted for seafood dishes to start off the meal, before moving on to more impacting meat dishes.

The first seafood plate to arrive was the much praised tuna ribbons: impressively long strips of intensely coloured tuna sashimi, entwined together on a bed of pureed avocado. Drizzled with a soy and ginger marinade and dotted throughout with the heat of sliced spicy radish, the dish combined all the elements of our much loved tuna sashimi in a spectacular way.

A second seafood dish took the peekytoe crab, evidently a Jean Georges favourite, and partnered it with shaved ribbons of asparagus. Aghast, we watched as a melon and mustard broth was poured liberally over the dish. Fearful of the impending taste of the melon and crab mixture, our apprehension was wholly unjustified; the sweet and succulent crab meat mixing well with the sweet and punchy broth.

Continuing a run of exciting new taste experiences, we anxiously awaited the next course: the famous foie gras brûlée. Arriving as a rather unattractive browned lump, the beauty was thankfully all in the taste. A solid block of foie gras was topped with a layer of browned caramel and placed on a rich, toasted brioche. Each mouthful radiated with silky smooth, unctuous foie gras, littered with bittersweet crystals of caramel and the crisp buttery brioche bite.

Onwards to the main meat courses, and we decided on a grilled beef tenderloin, accompanied by a smoked tomato compote and crispy potatoes. The faultless beef was imparted a smoky aroma by its tomato bed, giving a slight hint of charcoal without compromising the flavour of the beef. The crispy potatoes were crispy indeed; resting on a bed of spinach, the heap of golden crunches were a concentrated reminder of the best ends of a chip shop purchase.

For the penultimate dish we opted for a course of roast veal. Paired with chunks of braised artichokes, we felt this was the weakest dish of the day; the artichokes were too bitter in taste, and the veal, though tender and perfectly cooked, seemed to be slightly lacking in flavour. These small failings were forgiven, however, with a tableside pouring of a parmesan veal jus: light and flavourful, the sauce emitted a heady aroma of meaty parmesan much to our collective delight.

Though it was capped off with a slight disappointment, we reluctantly came to the end of the tasting menu and headed towards the dessert phase. Opting for a tasting of chocolate, we were presented with a selection of inventive takes of the cocoa variety. Highest in novelty were the cocoa noodles, slippery chocolate tendrils bathing in a mint sauce. The mint theme continued with a refreshing mint sorbet, though the highlight of the dish, however, was definitely the Jean- Georges chocolate cake; moist, fluffy, and exploding with a liquid layer within.

Coming to the end of the service we were presented with a selection of petit fours. Alongside the traditional pairing of chocolate and (impressively minified) macaroons, we were also treated to a multicoloured array of flavoured marshmallow.

Meal complete, we reflected on the meal and praised the impeccable service and inventive dishes. Though much is made of a slightly lenient grading process in the American guide (would some starred restaurants truly warrant a star if they were in Paris or London for example?), Jean-Georges is no doubt one of the best restaurants in the world. Add to this an ease of accessibility and prices that are relatively absurd value for money (3 course lunches for $42) Jean-Georges is a must-visit New York culinary experience.

Jean-Georges
1 Central Park West,
New York,
New York 10023